Please note that plant pick-up is one day only. If you cannot pick-up your plants on that day, please arrange for someone else to pick them up for you. The Wheaton Garden Club cannot be responsible for the condition of plants not picked up on May 16th.
Four Wheaton Garden Club members have certified way stations! We are making progress on our way to reaching our goal of ten. A garden does not have to start from scratch to become a way station. Many times it only takes an addition of milkweed plants. In case you worry that milkweed is invasive, the following are not: butterfly weed (asclepias tuberosa), swamp milk weed (asclepias incarnata) and purple milk weed (asclepias purpurascens).
Information on Monarch Butterfly Way Station requirements and an application form can be found on the link below. You can register online or print out the application. The Wheaton Garden Club will cover the $16 registration fee for members.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia that have already flowered.
Fertilize roses early this month or mid-month if you already fertilized last month. Use a 20-20-20 liquid solution when flower buds are set. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
perennials before they reach 6 inches.
back fall-blooming perennials such as chrysanthemums, asters, and tall sedums
once a week.
growth of perennial vines on their supports.
peonies for botrytis blight or other fungal problems. If they had problems last
year, spray when plants are 2-4 inches tall. I’m quoting: There are fungicides that can help protect your
plants from Botrytis blight. You need to look for a product that says on the
label that it can be used on the specific type of plant, peony, and the
specific disease, for instance, Botrytis blight. There should be products with
the active ingredient “Mancozeb” or some type of copper that are labeled for
use on peony against Botrytis blight. In terms of where to apply the fungicide,
read and follow all label directions! I don’t think it is necessary to dig out
the peonies before treatment, but follow the directions above all. Fungicides
should be applied to protect against Botrytis blight early in the season.
sure your garden beds are not too wet. If it’s been raining or snowing and the
soil is saturated, you’ll have to postpone your gardening a bit longer.
Shrubs and trees
is still time to plant trees and shrubs. However, by mid-month it will be a
little late to transplant large trees or shrubs.
months of March, April and May are ideal for pruning evergreens. If you have juniper,
cypress or conifer that need shearing or pruning, this is a good time to do it.
Remove all dead, diseased, and undesirable wood. Don’t prune back into the bare
wood part of the plant.
forsythia after it finishes flowering.
and needle leaf evergreens benefit most from lightly spreading a high nitrogen
fertilizer around their bases.
Perennials, annuals and bulbs
is the month for planting summer flowering bulbs like dahlias, gladiolas and
lilies. Mix bulb fertilizer, processes manure and peat moss into the planting
soil. Tuberous begonias and canna should not be set outdoors until all danger
of frost has passed, so wait until next month.
most areas it is still possible to do dormant spraying of fruit trees until the
15th, after that date dilute the spray by 1/2. Spraying should be done on a
still day with the temperature above 40 degrees F.
March and early April is a good time to
transplant shrubs and trees. As soon as the soil is workable, but
before buds have swelled or broken open, you can move shrubs and trees.
shrubs and trees if this wasn’t done in February. Use an acid type rhododendron
fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons,
azaleas and camellias. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other
deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use granular type fertilizers, be sure to
water it in thoroughly.
pruning fruit trees this month – before the buds swell.
annuals, and bulbs
is often a strong temptation to start removing winter mulches from your flower
beds…. WAIT!!! Pull the mulch off gradually as the plants show signs
of new growth. The purpose of winter mulch is to act as a protector from sudden
changes of temperature and chilling winds, so keep in mind that it is still
winter. Acclimatize your plants by removing the mulch over a period of days,
allowing the light and air to reach the new growth slowly. It is much better to
remove the mulch a little later than to remove it to early.